Tuesday morning about an hour before leaving for the airport, Yvette came by to say goodbye and give me a photo book of South Africa that a former volunteer made, and several people had signed.
On the way to the airport, I asked Matt to pull into Spar so I could get him the cash I owed him to reconcile our petrol expenses, and to say goodbye to the samosa girls. The main samosa girl [the one hiding in the background for some reason] – who hasn’t been there the last few weeks I’ve gone – was back. I got a final Coke (shared with “Dumi”) and some final samosas. The girl asked me if I can get samosas in America and I said I never have, but I’m sure I can.
Matt parked at the airport and went in with me, all the way to security. “This is where you leave, I guess?” I asked as we stood under the entrance. We had an employee take pictures, much to Matt’s amusement. She couldn’t seem to take a non-blurry one, so here are a few tries.
Then it was time for the final goodbye.
“It’s like the end of a Seinfeld episode,” said Matt. “No hugs, no lessons.” {I had to look that up when I got to the hotel.) But we did hug. As I started to cry, he said, “No, no, save it for the plane.”
I tried to say something nice, but couldn’t. “Okay, just go,” I finally said, as we both laughed. “I’ll write you a letter later.” (I’m not really going to write you a letter, if you happen to be reading this.)
As he left I called out, “Hamba kahle” (“go well”) and then cried all through security and the walk to my gate.
*
The flight to Jo’burg was uneventful. My ears didn’t even hurt, thanks to the earplane earplugs and the tons of decongestant I’d been taking to prevent it.
When I went through passport control in the Jo’burg airport, the man asked, “Where you going?”
“Home,” I said. “Don’t make me cry.”
“Oh no, it’s nice to go home,” he said with a big smile. “See how everyone is. Come back if you want.” I nodded through my tears, and he waved me on.
I got a few last-minute souvenirs. I have this to say to my sister-in-law, who is pregnant with her second boy: this is why you should’ve had a girl this time. The boy equivalents of these outfits are just not acceptable.
I grabbed a few pair of 20 Rand earrings and some little pens with the South African flag, to keep on hand for anyone who seems to think I should have brought them something. I’ve never felt like I’ve found the perfect SA souvenir for myself – I have plenty of shirts, knick-knacks, and pictures, but I didn’t buy any artwork or anything big because I’m kind of a nomad with no place to put it. As I was in the check-out line, I looked down and saw this. Perfect.
Now I’ll always be on Africa time, although I’ll probably refrain from telling that to my future employers.
I sat in a little cafe, eating fish and chips and drinking hot chocolate. I had a 5 hour layover, which actually flew by (haha, flew). I was pretty much over the crying, but the radio station was blaring songs like, “I’ll be missing you” (the rap version of “I’ll be watching you,” which is kind of a stalkeresque song that creeps me out). Oh…and then they played that version.
[Look at allllll those kind of Pringles! I found some peanut butter M&M’s here, which are even rare in the US.]
As I killed more time in the souvenir shop, I recognized other American accents [although I hope I’m not as loud and obnoxious-sounding].
“Where are you from?” I asked. “I hear other Americans.” One was from North Carolina and two were from Idaho. Then they asked me. I told them, and then said, “It’s good to hear American accents.”
“Yeah,” one guy said, “Few and far between.”
We parted ways (though we were on the same flight and I got to watch the slow decomposition of the girl throughout the journey, as she walked past me to the bathroom several times, each in a progressively worse state of sleep-deprivation and bad hair).
As soon as I sat down at my gate, still with about three hours to go, a lady came up and interviewed me about my experiences, for a tourism survey. My last 14 months summarized by numbers in 3 minutes. Rate South Africa on a scale of 1 to 5. Overall experience – 5. Safety – 3. Value for money – 5. Natural beauty – 5. Best experience – the people and the game parks. Worst experience – I skipped the whole Ndumiso saga and told her about the attempted phone-stealing…no need to start crying again.
She gave me a pen to express her appreciate. As she walked away, I said “ngiyabonga,” although I had a feeling she wasn’t Zulu.
“Oh,” she smiled. “In Sotho we say [whatever] and in Xhosa we say [whatever].”
“Which are you?” I asked. She was half and half. I know Zulu is not as common in Jo’burg and other areas of the country, but I fall into it anyway.
I was actually quite comfortable on my layover, thanks to having brought my own pillow (crammed full of tons of stuff) and having access to a row of chairs without armrests in between. Socks and shoes off, lying down, reading my Kindle for a little bit. Slightly tired because of the meds I had to keep taking for my ears, but overall not bad.
An old American lady walked up and asked if I was on the internet. I was actually just watching Elf on my laptop, but I told her I could help her access her free 30 minutes. Once she got on, she annoyed me by Skyping for the whole time.
I was bored, so I posted this on Facebook: Attention black people of America: please excuse me if for the next several months I greet you with “Sawubona,” and pick up your children without your permission. In return, feel free to call me “umlungu.”
I notice every time I come home, I am so confused by black people. I expect white people to have an American accent, but I expect black people to be Zulu. It’s led to some embarrassment.
The security before the flight to Senegal was the tightest I’ve ever seen. Besides the regular security, a few minutes before boarding in Jo’burg, they made us all get up and line up outside the seating area. I was standing in one of two lines, when someone pointed out I [along with my old lady friend, who was tagging along complaining] was in the men’s line. Oh, I realized. A pat down. They frisked all of us and made me throw away my toothpaste. I guess better safe than minty.
Then when we entered the walkway to the plane, one security person handed us all a card that we had to hand to someone at the entrance to the plane. I guess in case we somehow dropped down from the roof. I almost turned the card down, thinking it was a business card.
I had this thought the first time I used the bathroom on board:
It’s not very convincing that you don’t want people to smoke in the lavatory when you have an ash tray underneath the sign.
I settled in for the long flight [on an aisle seat – yay!], with my decongestant and my homeopathic pills for restless legs (I refuse to call it a syndrome; it’s clearly a symptom of something). I even splurged (not really, it was free) for a little bit of wine, hoping I could go to sleep.
First up, I watched “The Secret Life of Bees.” I’d seen it before. It’s a great movie – about a girl and her black maid who run away in the 1960’s. All I noticed at first were the cars driving on the right side of the road, and the word “colored” instead of “coloured.” Sigh. This is going to be an adjustment.
The guy sitting next to me was a black South African. I’m guessing he wasn’t Zulu, but I don’t know what he was. We didn’t talk much at first. Then when I stepped out of the bathroom, he was waiting.
“Which one is men’s and which one is women’s?” he asked. Well, first of all, you just saw me come out of this one, so I don’t know if you’re doubting whether I’m a woman or whether I can read.
I didn’t say that. I said, “They’re either.”
When we were both seated again, he leaned over and said, “I didn’t think you spoke English.” That was interesting, considering we hadn’t talked at all, but every interaction I’d had with a stewardess had been in English.
“Yep,” I said, and then added, “It’s all I speak.”
He asked where I had been and for how long, so I told him. He asked why, so I told him. Then we both went back to our movies.
A few minutes later, I could see him looking at me. Then he motioned toward my screen, for me to pause my movie. I did.
He looked perplexed. “You were in Durban for a year without your family?” he asked.
“Yes,” I told him. “I wasn’t alone though. I lived at my church with other volunteers.”
He did the typical “you’re so amazing” thing that missionaries get used to, but which never ceases to nearly evoke the response of, “Let me tell you all the horrible things I’ve done in my life, just to re-even the score.” I just smiled and said thanks, that it was my pleasure.
He kept offering me Halls cough drops, which he called “sweeties.” This made me laugh, because Maxwell did the same thing a while back. I refrained. The second time he offered, I said no, and then he dropped his and got another one.
“See?” I said, “You needed the extra one.”
“No,” he shook his head. “That one was supposed to be yours.”
We stopped in Dakar, Senegal, to re-fuel, but didn’t get off the plane. Some passengers did though, and more got on. Just when I was thinking this was the perfect scenario for one of the departing passengers to have left a bomb, they made an announcement for us to all get our overhead luggage out and hold it in our laps while they thoroughly searched the plane.
We were there for about an hour. When we took off again, the plane had several mosquitoes. I wondered if Senegal was a malaria-free country. Good thing Senegal is now free of ebola (it only had one case, of someone who walked across the border with it; and it seems like they handled it really well), because as much as I jokingly liked the idea of a 21-day quarantine, I don’t actually like the idea.
That flight got uncomfortable after a few hours. I was on my second 8 1/2 hour flight of the day, and ready to be home. But it was bearable.
When I stepped off the plane in DC, I found myself grinning and singing, “God bless America” under my breath, like I always do in that situation. The security guy had a Starbucks Christmas cup in his hand, which led me to almost committing an act of terrorism. Instead, I just found a Starbucks.
$10 worth of American happiness right there.
As I interacted with airport staff, I almost said “ngiyabonga” twice.
The main thing I started to notice is how much more polite South Africans are than Americans. Or maybe just people in airports are more stressed and, therefore, less polite than the average person.
I got a little giddy when I saw this outside:
I took the airport shuttle to my hotel (the details of why I didn’t go straight to Richmond will be explained in a future blog, probably tomorrow) and they didn’t have a room ready yet. I had called and asked if I could have early check-in, since my flight got in at 6 am, and they said they would do their best but it would be contingent on whether they had a room yet. Can’t argue with that.
I told the lady I understood and I just figured I’d rather wait in the lobby than in the airport. It was about 8:45 at that point, and regular check-in was 11:00; but she said she did have an empty room that just needed to be cleaned. It could take up to 45 minutes. She was very apologetic, like she expected me to be upset. I’m always amazed at how rude people are to hotel staff. 45 minutes sounded very reasonable, since it would still be 1 1/2 hour before check-in.
The room was ready in about 30 minutes. I was happy to brush my teeth for the first time in over 30 hours (I had a toothbrush on the plane, but hadn’t found the motivation to use the tiny bathroom sink for that). I couldn’t decide between nap and shower, so I went with a short nap. Then I discovered there was no shampoo, and I hadn’t brought mine with me, and had used the last of my baking soda (which I frequently use instead of shampoo) as detergent for my last load of African laundry. I phoned the front desk and they were going to bring some up, but they rang back a few minutes later and said they were out. I used soap. My hair isn’t feeling the best right now, but I noticed it feels thicker – which I’ll take.
I ordered pizza, chicken wings, and a 2 litre of Dr. Pepper, since I’ll be here 48 hours.
It was ridiculously expensive, but I’m soaking up my re-entry with as much American food as possible for a few days, before attempting to work more seriously on the eating aspect of weightloss.
I got right down to business, looking for a phone case for the iPhone 6 I just ordered to replace my lost iPhone 5 and the old, slow iPhone 3 I’ve been back on for the last few months. I almost ordered this case…
…I thought about ordering it anyway and putting a sticker over the superfluous ‘, but then the distance between the ‘T’ and the ‘S’ would bug me. I guess I’ll keep looking.